Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Shanahan's on the Green, Dublin City Centre

I very excited to be treated to a meal in this iconic Dublin steakhouse earlier this Summer. So much so that I starved myself through an exam. As a high achiever I strongly recommend against this, how and ever an occasion as such had to be respected and fully embraced.

Ironically, the evening of our celebration coincided with the day of Gerry Ryan's (RTE broadcaster) untimely death. This was ironic because Shanahan's oozes with that exorbitant, excessiveness that he was more than well known for indulging in. There was an air about the city that night and everyone was talking about the news that still hadn't sunk in. Eating in Shanahan's that night seemed slightly in bad taste. Nevertheless, it didn't hold us back but it did set a backdrop to the mood and early conversation of the night.

As delicious as the starters sounded, we were all very wise and exercised enough self-restraint to hold back for the main course. But hell did we let loose when it came to the piece de la resistance! Of eight diners, all but one went straight to the steak menu. Now to the uninitiated, the selection process requires more than a little attention. The steaks range from the 215g filet mignon, to the 681g rib eye/T-bone. However the discrepancy in prices is much smaller, at E46 for the cheapest option to E52 for the whole hog. So you may as well go for the one that tickles your fancy the most. Unlike a similar experience in a real American steakhouse, Monty’s of LA though, the raw cuts were not presented to the table so it does take a bit of advice/knowledge to get what you’re looking for. Waste not want not six of us sensibly went for the filet mignon. The Gerry Ryan of the table (he won't thank me for that) went for the T-bone. Next you have to decide how you would like your steak cooked and as most know how they like theirs done this is the easy part. In so many restaurants this is not the case as medium can range from bloody to well done, depending on the chef. Granted, this is more likely to occur in mediocre restaurants, however I have experienced it in places you would expect better of. Not so in Shanahan's. As stated in the menu, their steaks are cooked to perfection and the specifications are bang on target.

The next minefield to conquer was which sides to choose? Everything sounded so appealing I think we went for a bit of everything: whipped potatoes with butter and chives; French fries, crispy fried onion strings, creamed spinach, roast butternut squash with rosemary oil and creamed sweet corn.

And so we waited in anticipation for our feast, accompanied by some fresh homemade breads. The bread was the best I have had in a restaurant. In fact as far as my memory allows me it was the best I have had, anywhere, ever (and I have a photographic memory of my food journeys). I would go back for the bread alone. I have more than a strong suspicion that this was achieved by copious amounts of butter baked into the hot, fresh bread. There were other flavours in the bread, but no more about the bread as I could write all day about it.

All at once the banquet appeared and in a matter of moments our white table-clothed and silver laid table was adorned with baskets, copper pots and big rounded plates. After much greedy reaching and passing around the meal commenced in earnest, and boy was it a marathon. The steak, medium/rare for me, was well sealed and caramelized on the outside, pink and slightly bloody on the inside but warm through. It was tender and flavoursome, certainly reaching expectations. The mash was smooth and creamy, not that awful gloopy purée that we are served up all too often. The French fries were cookbook perfect and the onion strings were excellent, having been soaked in buttermilk before receiving a light coating of flour and paying visit to the deep fat fryer. The vegetables were equally impressive, though not for all (some were intent on it being a meat fest). I was particularly taken on the creamed corn which had strong hints of nutmeg and a creamy, but textured consistency. Everything was really top notch, with nothing to disappoint. Even the sacrilegious black sole had by the black sheep of the party was declared exquisite. Reaching such heights of perfection is truly an achievement for places like Shanahan's where notoriety pushes the benchmark much higher. Red wine was had which complimented the steaks just beautifully-but that's not my forte.

Room for dessert? Always! As I recall there was a peanut butter chocolate torte with Toblerone sauce and peanut brittle shared between two, a rhubarb and ginger crumble for one and two cookies and cream cheesecake with vanilla and chocolate sauce for two gluttonous souls, including one belonging to myself. At E12.50 a pop, like nothing in Shanahan's they don't come cheap but they do deliver. Presented like gift wrapped creations, they have all the trimmings, white and dark chocolate swirls as well as a whole Oreo cookie for me and my accomplice. I can proudly declare that I finished and enjoyed every unnecessary bite of mine and similarly plates were licked clean all round. Coffees and whiskey’s (ordered by you know who) rounded of a wonderful night.

And so sums up the Shanahan's experience. An overindulgent gorge-fest, not for the faint hearted. And prices considered, not for every day either. Apparently Shanahan's is and has always been a loss maker. You pay for your steak, but sides are reasonable. At around the E9 mark each, they were portioned to feed a table of eight of us more than comfortably. Mr. R couldn’t even finish his steak. It in fact fed the family as we lived off reminiscent steak sandwiches for days (this is no word of a lie). If your pockets aren’t quite long enough, go to Shanahan’s for a reasonably priced E45 all inclusive lunch. You must be able to afford to take the rest of the day off to recover on the couch mind. Shanahan’s on the Green? Shanahan's on the money I say.

http://www.shanahans.ie/

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